设计师对话 Rodarte如何将复古元素融入现代审美中
在纽约时装周的某个夜晚,Rodarte设计师卡罗琳·施密特和梅丽莎·施密特接受了一个特别的访谈。他们坐在一间充满自然光的房间里,面前摆着几本厚重的书籍和一些精致的手工艺品。
"你们如何看待'复古'这个词?" 访谈者问道。
卡罗琳轻笑了一声,“对于我们来说,'复古'并不是简单地回归过去,而是关于重新解读历史,用它来创造出新的东西。”
梅丽莎补充道,“我们不追求模仿,而是要找到一种方式,让过去与现在相遇。”
Rodarte这两位设计师以其独特的视角,将传统与现代巧妙地结合起来。从初次亮相时装周到如今,他们一直在探索这种艺术形式之间的界限。然而,这种方法并不容易。在讨论这一点时,他们提到了一个关键词:传承。
传承
“我们的工作是一种传承。” 卡罗琳说。“我们试图理解那些被遗忘或被忽视的事情,并用它们为今天的人们提供新的见解。”
她们通过研究历史服饰、手工艺品以及其他文化遗产来寻找灵感。这不仅仅局限于西方文化,她们也会去日本、墨西哥甚至非洲寻找奇异而又独特的事物。
现代化
尽管她们深爱历史,但她们同时也非常注重现代性。她们认为,不应该让任何东西显得过分沉重或者老旧。所以,无论是材料选择还是风格处理,她们都会尽量保持轻盈和流畅。
例如,在最新的一季秀上,Rodarte展示了许多细节繁复但外观简洁的大衣。这背后,是对高尔夫球运动服装元素进行了现代化处理——既保留了原有的优雅,又增添了一抹休闲气息,使整个系列既有类似19世纪英伦绅士般的质感,也具有21世纪年轻人的活力。
艺术精神
对于Rodarte来说,最重要的是艺术精神。“如果我们的衣服只是为了穿着而存在,那就没有意义。” 梅丽莎说。“我们希望每件作品都能激起人们的情感反应,无论是喜欢还是讨厌,都好极了。”
她举例说明:“比如,我们曾经做过一款裙子,上面布满鲜艳色彩的小鸟图案。那款衣服很快就在街头出现,但人们对它持有不同的态度,有人觉得太夸张,有人却觉得非常新颖。” “这就是艺术,它能够引发情绪上的共鸣。”
时尚与身份
在讨论这些问题的时候,Schmidt Sisters总是在强调 clothes should be a part of one's identity, not just something to wear. "When you put on a Rodarte piece," they say, "it should tell the story of who you are."
This idea is deeply rooted in their own experiences as well. They grew up in an artistic family and were encouraged to explore their creativity from a young age.
"We were always surrounded by art and fashion," says Kate. "It was like it was seeping into our pores."
Caroline nods in agreement. "And I think that's why we can't help but approach design with an artistic mindset."
The sisters believe that this approach sets them apart from other designers who may be more focused on trends or commercial success.
"We're not trying to make clothes for everyone," they say. "We're making clothes for those who appreciate beauty, craftsmanship, and individuality."
As the conversation comes to a close, the Schmidts reflect on what they've learned throughout their careers.
"I think the most important thing is staying true to yourself," says Caroline.
"And being open-minded," adds Kate.
"But also knowing when to take risks." The sisters laugh at each other before continuing.
"It's all about balance – between tradition and modernity, between aesthetics and functionality."
As the interview ends, it becomes clear that Rodarte embodies more than just clothing; it represents a philosophy of life - embracing both past and present while staying true to oneself.
In essence, Rodarte has successfully merged two seemingly contradictory worlds: history & modernity; tradition & innovation; classicism & avant-garde - proving that sometimes opposites really do attract.